Suffield Garden Club, Inc.
Organized June 24, 1934
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Gardening Tips
AND STILL MORE TIPS...
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all ages, disabilities and lifestyles
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Answers to your specific gardening questions
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Conn. Horticulture Society favorite gardening blogs
2012
February
GARDENING BY THE MOON
2011
December
November
THE PRICE IS RIGHT
October
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 3
September
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 2
July/August
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 1
June
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ZINNIAS!
May
TATERS 'n TOTS
April
COMING SOON TO YOUR FEEDER: HUMMINGBIRDS
March
VICTORY VIOLETS 2
February
VICTORY VIOLETS 1
2010
December
POISONOUS PLANTS
November
MEALYBUGS
October
ELEPHANT EARS
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 3
September
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 2
July/August
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES 1
June
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ZINNIAS!
May
TATERS 'n TOTS
April
COMING SOON TO YOUR FEEDER: HUMMINGBIRDS
March
VICTORY VIOLETS 2
February
VICTORY VIOLETS 1
2010
December
POISONOUS PLANTS
November
MEALYBUGS
October
ELEPHANT EARS
September
GREEN ACRES
July/August
2009
December
GREEN ACRES
July/August
June
A CUT ABOVE THE REST
May
April
March
February
2009
December
RAIN GARDENS
You can also read Gardening Tips in each monthly issue of The Suffield Observer, available at convenient locations around Suffield, Connecticut.
You can also read Gardening Tips in each monthly issue of The Suffield Observer, available at convenient locations around Suffield, Connecticut.
GARDENING BY THE MOON
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
The Moon has been an object
of intrigue for centuries. Most are aware that this celestial body affects the ocean's tides and many believe a Full Moon affects people's behavior. There is a definite correlation between our planet Earth and the Moon. Just as each month of the year is dominated by one of the Zodiac signs, so is each day of the month as the Moon moves through the different Zodiac signs.
Gardening by the Moon's sign has been a farmers' tradition since the early 1700s. Because the Moon is powerful enough to affect the ocean, many believe it also influences the soil. Numerous gardeners swear they get positive results when considering the phases of the Moon and the Zodiac sign the Moon is in. Many refer to the Old Farmer's Almanac, an annual publication with a variety of valuable information. While it's best known for its long-range weather predictions, this almanac also provides direction on gardening, cooking, fishing, times of sunrise, sunset and more.
Among numerous studies over the years, Dr. Frank Brown of Northwestern University performed research over a 10-year period, keeping meticulous records of his results. He found that plants absorbed more water at the time of the Full Moon. He conducted his experiments in a laboratory without direct contact from the Moon, yet he found that they were still influenced by it. The increased moisture encourages seeds to sprout and grow.
Native American Indians were a very poetic people, intelligent and creative. They gave the Moon many names. Each Full Moon of the year had a specific name and a story to go with it. The Indians named the various Moons long before the settlers came to the New World. Due to frequent blizzards, February's Full Moon was called the "Snow Moon".
HOT HINT
Visit Gardening By the Moon for calendars and more information.
Source: Sleeping With a Sunflower: A Treasury of Old Time Gardening Lore
"Three things cannot be long hidden:
the sun, the moon and the truth."
~ Buddha (6th-5th c. BC)
Spiritual teacher
the sun, the moon and the truth."
~ Buddha (6th-5th c. BC)
Spiritual teacher
December 2011
The popular Norfolk Pine tree is a living indoor Christmas tree that can be enjoyed as an elegant houseplant year round. Unlike many other evergreen trees, the Norfolk Pine does not drop its needles, is a slow grower and is resistant to disease. The lush green branches, pliable needles and deep rich coloration provide a verdant backdrop for colorful holiday decorations, if you so desire.
Available as tiny desktop plants or majestic floor plants, Norfolk Pines make a dramatic houseplant after the holiday season. They can be planted outdoors in tropical climates or grown indoors. The following horticultural instructions should give you success:
1
Plant in a mixture of equal parts of potting soil, sand and peat moss and place in a permanent location. Norfolk Pines do not like to be transplanted or relocated.
2
Choose to locate your tree in a spot with bright, filtered morning sunshine. When Norfolk Pine trees are grown indoors, they should be placed close to a window where they will receive natural light. They can survive with artificial light, but will not thrive.
3
If the light is coming from only one direction, rotate the tree a quarter turn weekly to keep it from tilting toward one side and growing in an irregular form.
4
Water as required. Keep soil moist, but not soggy. Provide adequate drainage. Do not allow the pine tree to sit in standing water because this will rot the roots.
5
Regulate the temperature. Norfolk Pines prefer daytime temperatures from 50 to 70 degrees and are happy if somewhat cooler at night.
6
Protect from temperatures below 40 degrees. Norfolk Pines are subtropical plants and will not tolerate cold rooms or a chilly draft.
HOT HINT
NORFOLK PINES
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
The popular Norfolk Pine tree is a living indoor Christmas tree that can be enjoyed as an elegant houseplant year round. Unlike many other evergreen trees, the Norfolk Pine does not drop its needles, is a slow grower and is resistant to disease. The lush green branches, pliable needles and deep rich coloration provide a verdant backdrop for colorful holiday decorations, if you so desire.Available as tiny desktop plants or majestic floor plants, Norfolk Pines make a dramatic houseplant after the holiday season. They can be planted outdoors in tropical climates or grown indoors. The following horticultural instructions should give you success:
1
Plant in a mixture of equal parts of potting soil, sand and peat moss and place in a permanent location. Norfolk Pines do not like to be transplanted or relocated.
2
Choose to locate your tree in a spot with bright, filtered morning sunshine. When Norfolk Pine trees are grown indoors, they should be placed close to a window where they will receive natural light. They can survive with artificial light, but will not thrive.
3
If the light is coming from only one direction, rotate the tree a quarter turn weekly to keep it from tilting toward one side and growing in an irregular form.
4
Water as required. Keep soil moist, but not soggy. Provide adequate drainage. Do not allow the pine tree to sit in standing water because this will rot the roots.
5
Regulate the temperature. Norfolk Pines prefer daytime temperatures from 50 to 70 degrees and are happy if somewhat cooler at night.
6
Protect from temperatures below 40 degrees. Norfolk Pines are subtropical plants and will not tolerate cold rooms or a chilly draft.
HOT HINT
During the tree's active growing cycle, feed with an organic fertilizer formulated for indoor house plants. Norfolk Pines go through a dormant period during the cool winter months, at which time there is no need to fertilize.
"I will honor Christmas in my heart,
and will try to keep it all the year."
~ CHARLES DICKENS (1812-1870)
English novelist
November 2011
THE PRICE IS RIGHT
3
HOT HINT
New Plants From Cuttings
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Given the right conditions, many shrubs and trees will root from stem cuttings. Plus, the price is right!
1
Select a rather sheltered location from brutal winds for your cuttings.
2
In late autumn cut straight stems, with several buds, 10" long from the current year's growth. You may be able to take a few cuttings from one stem.
3
Strip off any leaves or side shoots.
4
Cut straight across the bottom of each stem BELOW a bud and make a slanted cut ABOVE a bud at the top. This will help you to differentiate which way to insert the cutting into the soil the right way up.
5
Insert cuttings 2-3" into the soil and about 6-8" apart. The buds above the surface will become new branches.
6
Firm lightly and water.
Experiment with the following:
- boxwood
- butterfly bush
- deutzia
- dogwood
- elder
- forsythia
- flowering currant
- mock orange
- rose (including bush types)
- spirea
- viburnum
- weigela
- willow
HOT HINT
Consider moistening the bottom ends in water and dipping into rooting hormone before planting, which should increase success.
"Make happy little trees."
ROBERT NORMAN "Bob" ROSS (1942-1995)
American painter, art instructor and TV host
October 2011
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES!
Part 3: NOT CAT FOOD
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
The majority of herbs are safe for cats.
However, there are those that pack a mean punch, some meaner than others.
The stems and leaves of potatoes and tomatoes are toxic not only for cats but, for humans as well. Toddlers should be watched closely in the vegetable garden. Plants in the allium family (onions, shallots, scallions, leeks, garlic, and chives) also present health risks for cats. Although onions are the most problematic if consumed in any form, cats are particularly attracted to chives because of their grass-like shape. Pots of growing chives should be kept out of feline reach. While the toxicity of chives is lower than that of onions, regular consumption may pose a risk.
Browsing online lists of poisonous plants can be frightening, but many plants listed as toxic cause unpleasant but relatively minor symptoms such as mouth irritation or temporary stomach upset (chrysanthemums and poinsettias, for example). Some can have deadlier consequences. Common garden plants that can induce particularly nasty and sometimes fatal reactions include:
•Amaryllis
•Autumn Crocus
•Azalea/Rhododendron
•Black Locust
•Castor Bean
•Cyclamen
•Foxglove
•Kalanchoe
•Larkspur
•Lily (all types)- particularly poisonous
•Monkshood
•Oleander
•Sago palm
•Yew
Most cats, given the option, will snack on grass rather than other types of greenery. Pet owners are far more likely to lose cats and dogs to chemical pesticides, antifreeze, or other man-made hazards. Keeping toxins out of pets’ reach and using natural methods to control garden pests will eliminate the most common poison hazards.
If you suspect that your cat has been poisoned, call your veterinarian, your local animal emergency clinic, or the National Animal Poison Control Center hotline-- 888-426-4435-- available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
HOT HINT
The Cat Fanciers’ Association has full lists of toxic and non-toxic plants for cats.
Source: ASPCA
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES!
Part 3: NOT CAT FOOD
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
The majority of herbs are safe for cats.
However, there are those that pack a mean punch, some meaner than others.The stems and leaves of potatoes and tomatoes are toxic not only for cats but, for humans as well. Toddlers should be watched closely in the vegetable garden. Plants in the allium family (onions, shallots, scallions, leeks, garlic, and chives) also present health risks for cats. Although onions are the most problematic if consumed in any form, cats are particularly attracted to chives because of their grass-like shape. Pots of growing chives should be kept out of feline reach. While the toxicity of chives is lower than that of onions, regular consumption may pose a risk.
Browsing online lists of poisonous plants can be frightening, but many plants listed as toxic cause unpleasant but relatively minor symptoms such as mouth irritation or temporary stomach upset (chrysanthemums and poinsettias, for example). Some can have deadlier consequences. Common garden plants that can induce particularly nasty and sometimes fatal reactions include:
•Amaryllis
•Autumn Crocus
•Azalea/Rhododendron
•Black Locust
•Castor Bean
•Cyclamen
•Foxglove
•Kalanchoe
•Larkspur
•Lily (all types)- particularly poisonous
•Monkshood
•Oleander
•Sago palm
•Yew
Most cats, given the option, will snack on grass rather than other types of greenery. Pet owners are far more likely to lose cats and dogs to chemical pesticides, antifreeze, or other man-made hazards. Keeping toxins out of pets’ reach and using natural methods to control garden pests will eliminate the most common poison hazards.
If you suspect that your cat has been poisoned, call your veterinarian, your local animal emergency clinic, or the National Animal Poison Control Center hotline-- 888-426-4435-- available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
HOT HINT
The Cat Fanciers’ Association has full lists of toxic and non-toxic plants for cats.
Source: ASPCA
"As anyone who has ever been around a cat for
any length of time well knows, cats have enormous patience
with the limitations of the human kind."
~ CLEVELAND AMORY (1917 – 1998)
American author who devoted his life to promoting animal rights
any length of time well knows, cats have enormous patience
with the limitations of the human kind."
~ CLEVELAND AMORY (1917 – 1998)
American author who devoted his life to promoting animal rights
September 2011
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES!
Part 2: CAT GRASS
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
What is cat grass?
Cat grass seed is usually sold under the name “cat grass,” but it’s really oat grass, wheat, barley or a combination of all three. Oat grass is particularly popular because it’s sweet and the blades are non-serrated. A product labeled “cat grass” will most likely be pesticide free, organic and manufactured for cat consumption.
Most animals like a little vegetation every now and then. Greens help with digestion and hairballs, provide folic acid and the chlorophyll is a natural breath freshener. Snacking on houseplants and chemically-treated lawns may cause nausea and vomiting. So, humans - cat grass and catnip offer safe, non-destructive alternatives for our feline friends.
Grow cat grass in these 8 easy steps:
HOT HINTS
Encouraging Deepak to feel free to munch, I place his pot of cat grass near his food dish and water goblet.
Planting seeds each week for two or three weeks enables a human to alternate crops.
Source: P. Allen Smith
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES!
Part 2: CAT GRASS
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
What is cat grass?
Cat grass seed is usually sold under the name “cat grass,” but it’s really oat grass, wheat, barley or a combination of all three. Oat grass is particularly popular because it’s sweet and the blades are non-serrated. A product labeled “cat grass” will most likely be pesticide free, organic and manufactured for cat consumption.
Most animals like a little vegetation every now and then. Greens help with digestion and hairballs, provide folic acid and the chlorophyll is a natural breath freshener. Snacking on houseplants and chemically-treated lawns may cause nausea and vomiting. So, humans - cat grass and catnip offer safe, non-destructive alternatives for our feline friends.
Grow cat grass in these 8 easy steps:
- Select a container that is at least 6 inches in diameter and fill with sterile potting soil.
- Sow seeds about 1/4 inch apart and cover with 1/2 inch of soil.
- Gently water.
- Place the pot or tray on a windowsill that receives good sunlight or under a grow light.
- Keep the soil moist, but don’t over water.
- The seeds should germinate in about 7 days. Cat grass is ready to serve when 2-3 inches tall, about 10-14 days after sowing.
- Keep the grass trimmed with scissors to 3 inches tall.
- Once the grass begins to turn yellow, toss it out and start over.
HOT HINTS
Encouraging Deepak to feel free to munch, I place his pot of cat grass near his food dish and water goblet.
Planting seeds each week for two or three weeks enables a human to alternate crops.
Source: P. Allen Smith
"In ancient times cats were worshipped as gods;
they have NOT forgotten this."
~ TERRY PRATCHETT (1948-),
English novelist
they have NOT forgotten this."
~ TERRY PRATCHETT (1948-),
English novelist
CALLING ALL CAT DEVOTEES!
Part 1: CATNIP
Part 1: CATNIP
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Many cats -- including lions, pumas, and leopards! -- react to the irresistible, intoxicating, soporific called catnip. The harmless, active ingredient is nepetalactone. The tendency to like or ignore catnip is inherited and some cats are immune to its influence.
Catnip is easily cultivated in any garden soil as the plant does not require the moisture that most mint plants need. Plants should be grown from seed and sown where they are going to stand. The seed should be sown very thinly in rows 20 inches apart and the seedlings thinned out to 16 inches apart. It requires almost no care except occasional weeding and a bed will last several years. It can also be propagated by division of the roots in spring. Catnip leaves and fragrant flowers are carefully air-dried to preserve essential oils at their best. Mid- to late summer, on a dry, sunny day is the ideal time to harvest. If you plant it and dry it, they will come.
Recreation: A harmless "high" for felines
Although many cats will eat it, scientists say they're reacting to the smell rather than the taste. Felines sniff, chew, rub against and roll in catnip to release the volatile oil trapped in the leaves. They may drool, too. This writer and numerous other doting humans lovingly fashion cloth pouches or stuff socks with dried, crushed catnip which are playfully tossed to their adored prince/princess of the household.
HOT HINTS
Cats are like people. They're all different. Tigger may act aloof around catnip and expect his human to plant grass seed in a personalized tray or pot.
For an injection of laughter: whether we are watching them chase a fly or sleep with all four legs in the air, cats tickle our funny bone. This, in turn, helps strengthen our immune system.
Meet me here in September for Part 2: CAT GRASS.
Source: Wikipedia & The Healing Power of Cats
Many cats -- including lions, pumas, and leopards! -- react to the irresistible, intoxicating, soporific called catnip. The harmless, active ingredient is nepetalactone. The tendency to like or ignore catnip is inherited and some cats are immune to its influence.
A native of Eurasia, naturalized in North America, catnip (Nepeta cataria L.) is a member of the mint family (Labiatae). Nepeta is believed to have come from the town of Nepete, Italy. Cataria is thought to have originated from Latin for cat. Bearing hairy, heart-shaped, gray-green leaves, this hardy, upright perennial herb has sturdy stems and spreads easily. Teeny white or lilac flowers form several clusters on the tips of its branches.
Catnip is easily cultivated in any garden soil as the plant does not require the moisture that most mint plants need. Plants should be grown from seed and sown where they are going to stand. The seed should be sown very thinly in rows 20 inches apart and the seedlings thinned out to 16 inches apart. It requires almost no care except occasional weeding and a bed will last several years. It can also be propagated by division of the roots in spring. Catnip leaves and fragrant flowers are carefully air-dried to preserve essential oils at their best. Mid- to late summer, on a dry, sunny day is the ideal time to harvest. If you plant it and dry it, they will come.
Recreation: A harmless "high" for felines
Although many cats will eat it, scientists say they're reacting to the smell rather than the taste. Felines sniff, chew, rub against and roll in catnip to release the volatile oil trapped in the leaves. They may drool, too. This writer and numerous other doting humans lovingly fashion cloth pouches or stuff socks with dried, crushed catnip which are playfully tossed to their adored prince/princess of the household.
HOT HINTS
Cats are like people. They're all different. Tigger may act aloof around catnip and expect his human to plant grass seed in a personalized tray or pot.
For an injection of laughter: whether we are watching them chase a fly or sleep with all four legs in the air, cats tickle our funny bone. This, in turn, helps strengthen our immune system.
Meet me here in September for Part 2: CAT GRASS.
Source: Wikipedia & The Healing Power of Cats
"Authors like cats because they are such quiet, lovable,
wise creatures, and cats like authors for the same reasons."
~ ROBERTSON DAVIES (1913-1995),
Canadian author
wise creatures, and cats like authors for the same reasons."
~ ROBERTSON DAVIES (1913-1995),
Canadian author
LIGHTS, CAMERA, ZINNIAS!
2011: The Year of the Zinnia
Declared by the National Garden Bureau, a non-profit organization providing reliable, accurate gardening information on flowers and vegetables grown from seed.
For decades, charming zinnias have been the flowering annual of choice for spreading glorious colors throughout the garden as well as for cutting to bring indoors. But it wasn't always so. When the Spanish first saw zinnia species in Mexico, they thought the flower was so unattractive they named it mal de ojos, or "sickness of the eye!" Years of breeding have brought striking new colors, shapes, sizes and growing habits to the humble zinnia. No present-day gardener would ever describe this versatile bloomer as anything less than eye catching.
So, amigos, whether they are admired in a garden or throned in a favorite vase, let bold and beautiful zinnias be the objects of your affection. Choose and enjoy a wide assortment of these brilliant, rounded flowers. There are dwarfs, midsize, as well as tall varieties that will grow up to three feet. Some blooms can be bi-colored, double, cactus-type or produce a formal looking dahlia-like array.
Zinnias are hot weather lovers and will await warm temperatures before really starting to grow. There is no panic to plant them the minute after the last frost. Growing their best in full sun, zinnias appreciate a moist, well-draining soil. Don't crowd these star performers; air circulation is essential to keeping them disease-free. Feel free to pick blooms frequently which will produce more. By cutting a floral stem above a pair of leaves, two new stems will appear almost before you can say, "Jack Sprat." Also, zinnias are not heavy feeders. I appreciate their dependability, sturdy stems and cheerful blossoms which look wonderful from my kitchen window as well as in a vase or unique container, lasting up to a week or more.
HOT HINTS
According to a Harvard research study, flowers do brighten your day. People who kept fresh flowers in their home felt more compassionate, happier and energetic.
Our club's Photography Show at Kent Memorial Library during June offers for sale several, colorful, framed photos on a variety of themes.
Source: National Garden Bureau
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
2011: The Year of the Zinnia
Declared by the National Garden Bureau, a non-profit organization providing reliable, accurate gardening information on flowers and vegetables grown from seed.
For decades, charming zinnias have been the flowering annual of choice for spreading glorious colors throughout the garden as well as for cutting to bring indoors. But it wasn't always so. When the Spanish first saw zinnia species in Mexico, they thought the flower was so unattractive they named it mal de ojos, or "sickness of the eye!" Years of breeding have brought striking new colors, shapes, sizes and growing habits to the humble zinnia. No present-day gardener would ever describe this versatile bloomer as anything less than eye catching.
So, amigos, whether they are admired in a garden or throned in a favorite vase, let bold and beautiful zinnias be the objects of your affection. Choose and enjoy a wide assortment of these brilliant, rounded flowers. There are dwarfs, midsize, as well as tall varieties that will grow up to three feet. Some blooms can be bi-colored, double, cactus-type or produce a formal looking dahlia-like array.
Zinnias are hot weather lovers and will await warm temperatures before really starting to grow. There is no panic to plant them the minute after the last frost. Growing their best in full sun, zinnias appreciate a moist, well-draining soil. Don't crowd these star performers; air circulation is essential to keeping them disease-free. Feel free to pick blooms frequently which will produce more. By cutting a floral stem above a pair of leaves, two new stems will appear almost before you can say, "Jack Sprat." Also, zinnias are not heavy feeders. I appreciate their dependability, sturdy stems and cheerful blossoms which look wonderful from my kitchen window as well as in a vase or unique container, lasting up to a week or more.
HOT HINTS
According to a Harvard research study, flowers do brighten your day. People who kept fresh flowers in their home felt more compassionate, happier and energetic.
Our club's Photography Show at Kent Memorial Library during June offers for sale several, colorful, framed photos on a variety of themes.
Source: National Garden Bureau
"A gardener's best resource is another gardener and thanks to the Internet, we can learn from green thumbs all over the world."
~ P. ALLEN SMITH (1960- ),
American TV show host & gardening expert
~ P. ALLEN SMITH (1960- ),
American TV show host & gardening expert
TATERS 'n TOTS
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Visualize chartreuse, cascading vines in your urns, hanging baskets or window boxes this summer. Flaunting heart-shaped leaves with morning glory-type flowers, ornamental sweet potato vines (Ipomoea batatas) are willing decorators. Plant a feast for the eyes including this annual with companions such as impatiens, geraniums, petunias, etc. Mine grew vigorously in the morning sun and afternoon shade.
Grow your own sweet potato vines and experiment using the following easy method. Observing nature's growth on the top and bottom of sweet potatoes is fascinating for tots, as well as adults.
Include edible sweet potatoes in your meal planning. In 1992, the Center for Science in the Public Interest compared the nutritional value of sweet potatoes to other vegetables. Considering the fiber content, complex carbohydrates, protein, Vitamins A and C, iron and calcium, the sweet potato ranked highest in nutritional value. All things white, i.e. potatoes, rice, pasta, sugar, flour and bread are frowned upon by nearly all nutrition-savvy individuals.
HOT HINTS
Savor the moments! Children are inquisitive and love to learn. Help them to discover their inner gardener and they may become gardening aficionados. Growing an ornamental sweet potato vine is an excellent home or classroom, windowsill project.
Source: Wikipedia
Visualize chartreuse, cascading vines in your urns, hanging baskets or window boxes this summer. Flaunting heart-shaped leaves with morning glory-type flowers, ornamental sweet potato vines (Ipomoea batatas) are willing decorators. Plant a feast for the eyes including this annual with companions such as impatiens, geraniums, petunias, etc. Mine grew vigorously in the morning sun and afternoon shade.
Grow your own sweet potato vines and experiment using the following easy method. Observing nature's growth on the top and bottom of sweet potatoes is fascinating for tots, as well as adults.
- Insert three or four toothpicks around the middle of a sweet potato with buds.
- Place bottom half in jar of water, resting the toothpicks on the top edge of jar.
- Locate to a sunny spot.
- Maintain water level covering the bottom half of the sweet potato.
- In two or three weeks tiny roots should appear on the bottom and soon leaves will emerge on top.
- When two to three inches of roots have grown, plant the sweet potato in urns, etc.
Include edible sweet potatoes in your meal planning. In 1992, the Center for Science in the Public Interest compared the nutritional value of sweet potatoes to other vegetables. Considering the fiber content, complex carbohydrates, protein, Vitamins A and C, iron and calcium, the sweet potato ranked highest in nutritional value. All things white, i.e. potatoes, rice, pasta, sugar, flour and bread are frowned upon by nearly all nutrition-savvy individuals.
HOT HINTS
Savor the moments! Children are inquisitive and love to learn. Help them to discover their inner gardener and they may become gardening aficionados. Growing an ornamental sweet potato vine is an excellent home or classroom, windowsill project.
Source: Wikipedia
"The way you think, the way you behave, the way you eat,
can influence your life by 30 to 50 years."
~ DEEPAK CHOPRA (1946- ),
Indian American physician, speaker & author
can influence your life by 30 to 50 years."
~ DEEPAK CHOPRA (1946- ),
Indian American physician, speaker & author
COMING SOON TO A FEEDER NEAR YOU
Hummingbirds soon will be searching for feeders or flowers containing nectar. If you would like to entice these petite beauties to your property, consider these horticultural facts:
COLOR can be important to a hummingbird's search for locating flowers containing nectar. The majority of plant species that are known to attract these friendly fliers have blossoms that are orange to red. Hummers are not 100% discriminating, however, and will regularly visit blossoms of any hue which they learn harness sufficient nectar to make it worth their effort.
There are several possible explanations for the preference of red flowers. Since insects also seek nectar, they can be regarded as competitors. Most insects see well in the visible and near-ultraviolet but, poorly in the red end of the spectrum. In other words, a red blossom may appear nearly black and unattractive to most insects, BUT not to the hummer, which can see not only the full visible spectrum but also some in the ultraviolet light. This makes it less likely that an insect has taken nectar from red flowers, which increases the odds of successful foraging for the hummingbird. Another possible deduction is that during migration, red blossoms contrast more strongly with a green environment than do other colors.
BLOSSOM SHAPE can be a determining factor to flowers visited by hummingbirds. Nectar contained in a long, tubular bloom is easily extracted by a hummer, whose tongue or proboscis can extend a distance roughly equal to its beak length and reach where most insects cannot. Downward-hanging blossoms with no "landing" platform are also less enticing to insects.
NECTAR VOLUME influences a flower's allure. Small/teeny flowers such as those on the butterfly bush, lantana and columbine may offer nectar but require many visits to make it worthwhile, and thus may not be favorites except for small species. The trumpet creeper produces one of the highest known volumes of nectar per blossom and will be seductive regardless of the bird's size.
Stop and view the hummers! Nature's, small, ruby-throated species flap its wings about 55 times per second.
HOT HINTS
Hummingbirds have little or no sense of smell. Traditional hollyhocks or hibiscus often provide an ideal attraction for them.
Click here to track the progress of the annual hummingbird migration.
Source: The Landscaper
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Hummingbirds soon will be searching for feeders or flowers containing nectar. If you would like to entice these petite beauties to your property, consider these horticultural facts:COLOR can be important to a hummingbird's search for locating flowers containing nectar. The majority of plant species that are known to attract these friendly fliers have blossoms that are orange to red. Hummers are not 100% discriminating, however, and will regularly visit blossoms of any hue which they learn harness sufficient nectar to make it worth their effort.
There are several possible explanations for the preference of red flowers. Since insects also seek nectar, they can be regarded as competitors. Most insects see well in the visible and near-ultraviolet but, poorly in the red end of the spectrum. In other words, a red blossom may appear nearly black and unattractive to most insects, BUT not to the hummer, which can see not only the full visible spectrum but also some in the ultraviolet light. This makes it less likely that an insect has taken nectar from red flowers, which increases the odds of successful foraging for the hummingbird. Another possible deduction is that during migration, red blossoms contrast more strongly with a green environment than do other colors.
BLOSSOM SHAPE can be a determining factor to flowers visited by hummingbirds. Nectar contained in a long, tubular bloom is easily extracted by a hummer, whose tongue or proboscis can extend a distance roughly equal to its beak length and reach where most insects cannot. Downward-hanging blossoms with no "landing" platform are also less enticing to insects.
NECTAR VOLUME influences a flower's allure. Small/teeny flowers such as those on the butterfly bush, lantana and columbine may offer nectar but require many visits to make it worthwhile, and thus may not be favorites except for small species. The trumpet creeper produces one of the highest known volumes of nectar per blossom and will be seductive regardless of the bird's size.
Stop and view the hummers! Nature's, small, ruby-throated species flap its wings about 55 times per second.
HOT HINTS
Hummingbirds have little or no sense of smell. Traditional hollyhocks or hibiscus often provide an ideal attraction for them.
Click here to track the progress of the annual hummingbird migration.
Source: The Landscaper
"When you drink in nature through your senses, you deepen your awareness of the great, silent intelligence flowing through all things".
~ DEEPAK CHOPRA (1946- )
Indian American physician, speaker & author
~ DEEPAK CHOPRA (1946- )
Indian American physician, speaker & author
VICTORY VIOLETS, Part 2
Whether you favor white, pink, purple or lavender; doubles or ruffled, they ALL are beautiful. Encourage the admiration of classic violets by propagating and giving away your own victorious African Violets (Saintpaulia). Follow these simple steps:
Sphagnum Peat Moss - found in swamps and bogs. The foundation plants of sphagnum died centuries ago. The pressure of its weight and heat of the decomposing plants have caused it to compress and transform into layers of peat. When water and nutrients are added, it becomes an ideal potting soil base.
Perlite - a gritty, white, pebbly material manufactured from crushed lava rock, expanded many times to its original size through intense heat. Perlite is lightweight and porous.
Vermiculite - a sterile, brownish, soft textured, pebbly material. It's made from crushed mica ore, expanded to many times its original size through intense heat. Vermiculite is lightweight and improves soil aeration while retaining moisture.
Horticultural Charcoal - an organic material which contributes to good drainage and keeps the soil and water fresh. Charcoal acts as a filter to remove chemicals that might be toxic to plants.
Dolomite Lime - composed of magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. It's an acid neutralizer and will bring the pH to neutral or alkaline, depending on how much is added. Dolomite limestone was formed by animals and plants deposited by sea water. Its magnesium is an essential element in chlorophyll and acts as a carrier for phosphorus. The first signs of a deficiency is yellowing of leaves.
HOT HINTS
African Violets prefer living in small pots, about 4 inches in diameter. Humidity from a nearby source, i.e. faucet, shower or steaming teapot will accelerate the number of charming blossoms. Remove any silly suckers that form on the central crown. All plants breathe better in clay pots. If occasional overwatering occurs, clay will allow much of the dampness to dissipate.
Source: African Violet Society of America
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Whether you favor white, pink, purple or lavender; doubles or ruffled, they ALL are beautiful. Encourage the admiration of classic violets by propagating and giving away your own victorious African Violets (Saintpaulia). Follow these simple steps:
Cut the end of a healthy leaflet stem using a sharp knife.- Plant stem in a small pot with wet, coarse vermiculite or a soil-less potting mix will do. (Or, place stem in water and watch for tiny roots to appear and then plant.)
- Divide tiny plantlets which will appear in 1-2 months. Pot them in high quality potting soil as soon as you can safely handle them. When the plant looks like the one in the photo, remove the mother leaf using a sharp knife just below the soil level and discard it.
Sphagnum Peat Moss - found in swamps and bogs. The foundation plants of sphagnum died centuries ago. The pressure of its weight and heat of the decomposing plants have caused it to compress and transform into layers of peat. When water and nutrients are added, it becomes an ideal potting soil base.
Perlite - a gritty, white, pebbly material manufactured from crushed lava rock, expanded many times to its original size through intense heat. Perlite is lightweight and porous.
Vermiculite - a sterile, brownish, soft textured, pebbly material. It's made from crushed mica ore, expanded to many times its original size through intense heat. Vermiculite is lightweight and improves soil aeration while retaining moisture.
Horticultural Charcoal - an organic material which contributes to good drainage and keeps the soil and water fresh. Charcoal acts as a filter to remove chemicals that might be toxic to plants.
Dolomite Lime - composed of magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate. It's an acid neutralizer and will bring the pH to neutral or alkaline, depending on how much is added. Dolomite limestone was formed by animals and plants deposited by sea water. Its magnesium is an essential element in chlorophyll and acts as a carrier for phosphorus. The first signs of a deficiency is yellowing of leaves.
HOT HINTS
African Violets prefer living in small pots, about 4 inches in diameter. Humidity from a nearby source, i.e. faucet, shower or steaming teapot will accelerate the number of charming blossoms. Remove any silly suckers that form on the central crown. All plants breathe better in clay pots. If occasional overwatering occurs, clay will allow much of the dampness to dissipate.
Source: African Violet Society of America
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."
~ JOHN KEATS (1795-1821),
English poet
~ JOHN KEATS (1795-1821),
English poet
VICTORY VIOLETS, Part 1
African Violets (Saintpaulia). The genus is named after Baron Walter von Saint Paul-Illaire (1860-1910), who discovered the plant in Tanganyika (now Tanzania) in Africa in 1892. He sent seeds back to his father, an amateur botanist in Germany. In 1926, seeds were exported to Los Angeles, Calif.
Anyone can grow beautiful African Violets, according to the African Violet Society, if the appropriate cultural methods are practiced. Also, a meaningful adventure is to start your own admirable plants from leaflets procured from friends and relatives. The following horticultural conditions should reward you with success.
Light - A window with bright light, with little or no direct sun, is perfect. Rotate pots 1/4-turn each day. Plants can also be grown exclusively under fluorescent lighting for approximately 12 hours daily.
Watering - Avoid wetting the central crown or exposing to direct sun, particularly if foliage gets wet. Use tepid water and only when the top of the soil feels slightly dry. Plants may be watered from the top, the bottom or by wicks. If you use plastic pots, a weekly watering (twice per week for clay pots) should suffice. Discard any run-off that may collect in the saucer.
Feeding - A shortage of fertilizing can result in a lack of blossoms. For natural light use 1/8-teaspoon of water soluble fertilizer to one gallon of water or, 1/4-teaspoon for fluorescent light growing and use according to directions on a regular basis.
Atmosphere - Renowned African Violets are happy and victorious in the same conditions in which people are comfortable . . . not too hot, nor too cold with 40-60% humidity.
Potting - Use a light and airy potting mix which will provide good drainage. Buy a "soiless" mix or a top quality, sterilized blend specifically formulated for African Violets. The most popular recipe is a 1-1-1 mixture of sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite and perlite.
HOT HINTS
Got salt? Did you ever notice a white crust on the soil of potted plants or sides of pots? Usually this is caused by a salt build-up from water. Every month or so, water all potted plants heavily until it floods out the bottom of the pots. Discard this water. Periodic flushes will deplete most of the salt. I fill my watering can one or two days prior to watering which allows chemicals to dissipate. If possible, every living thing should not drink chlorinated, unfiltered water.
Meet me here next month for Part 2 of Victory Violets!
Source: African Violet Society of America and Wikipedia
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
African Violets (Saintpaulia). The genus is named after Baron Walter von Saint Paul-Illaire (1860-1910), who discovered the plant in Tanganyika (now Tanzania) in Africa in 1892. He sent seeds back to his father, an amateur botanist in Germany. In 1926, seeds were exported to Los Angeles, Calif.
Anyone can grow beautiful African Violets, according to the African Violet Society, if the appropriate cultural methods are practiced. Also, a meaningful adventure is to start your own admirable plants from leaflets procured from friends and relatives. The following horticultural conditions should reward you with success.
Light - A window with bright light, with little or no direct sun, is perfect. Rotate pots 1/4-turn each day. Plants can also be grown exclusively under fluorescent lighting for approximately 12 hours daily.
Watering - Avoid wetting the central crown or exposing to direct sun, particularly if foliage gets wet. Use tepid water and only when the top of the soil feels slightly dry. Plants may be watered from the top, the bottom or by wicks. If you use plastic pots, a weekly watering (twice per week for clay pots) should suffice. Discard any run-off that may collect in the saucer.
Feeding - A shortage of fertilizing can result in a lack of blossoms. For natural light use 1/8-teaspoon of water soluble fertilizer to one gallon of water or, 1/4-teaspoon for fluorescent light growing and use according to directions on a regular basis.
Atmosphere - Renowned African Violets are happy and victorious in the same conditions in which people are comfortable . . . not too hot, nor too cold with 40-60% humidity.
Potting - Use a light and airy potting mix which will provide good drainage. Buy a "soiless" mix or a top quality, sterilized blend specifically formulated for African Violets. The most popular recipe is a 1-1-1 mixture of sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite and perlite.
HOT HINTS
Got salt? Did you ever notice a white crust on the soil of potted plants or sides of pots? Usually this is caused by a salt build-up from water. Every month or so, water all potted plants heavily until it floods out the bottom of the pots. Discard this water. Periodic flushes will deplete most of the salt. I fill my watering can one or two days prior to watering which allows chemicals to dissipate. If possible, every living thing should not drink chlorinated, unfiltered water.
Meet me here next month for Part 2 of Victory Violets!
Source: African Violet Society of America and Wikipedia
POISONOUS PLANTS
Many popular, holiday plants have visual appeal, BUT they can be toxic, especially to children and pets. Dear neighbor, I am thinking of you. Please continue reading and share this information with your loved ones.
Let's begin with the delightful Poinsettia. Although this Euphorbia
is not deathly dangerous,eating a few leaves may cause an ill feeling and vomiting. Rubbing the sap from the plant on one's skin can cause an itchy rash. Beyond that, this plant is unlikely to cause a tremendous problem for either humans or pets.
Mistletoe is potentially hazardous for children and pets. Pharoadendron species contain a toxin called phoratoxin, which can cause blurred vision, nausea, abdominal pain, diarrhea, blood pressure changes and even death. The Viscum species of mistletoe have a slightly different cocktail of chemicals, including the poisonous alkaloid tyramine, which produces similar symptoms. All parts of the mistletoe plant are poisonous, though it is the berries that may be most attractive to kids. Eating one or two berries may or may not cause a problem for a child, but a small pet could be endangered by eating a few leaves or berries. If your child or pet should eat mistletoe, seek medical advice pronto!
A child can eat one or two Holly Berries without harm, but around 20 berries can produce death. So, eating holly berries is a serious concern for children and pets. The bark, leaves and seeds are toxic as well. What is the poison? It is theobromine, an alkaloid that is related to caffeine. Theobromine is found in chocolate and is toxic to dogs even at the lower concentration but there is much more of the compound in holly berries.
Amaryllis, Daffodil and Narcissus bulbs may be forced indoors to produce charming holiday flowers. Eating the bulbs (and leaves, though they are less toxic) can cause abdominal pain, cardiac arrhythmias and convulsions. The plants are more likely to be eaten by pets than children, but the alkaloid poison, lycorine, is considered toxic to humans too.
Cyclamen, a flowering plant, has tubers which contain triterpinoidsaponins, which can induce nausea, vomiting, convulsions and paralysis. This plant is more of a concern for pets than humans.
Cedars, Pines and Firs are mildly toxic. If trees are sprayed with a flame retardant, obviously the toxicity is increased. The biggest issue is the possibility of puncturing part of the gastrointestinal tract from eating needles. Also, tree oils may irritate the mouth and skin.
Jerusalem Cherry is a species of nightshade that bears poisonous fruit. The primary poison is the alkaloid solanocapsine, which can produce gastric upset and vomiting in people but, generally is not life-threatening. However, the fruits are hazardous to dogs, cats and some birds. The fruit resembles a cherry tomato, both in appearance and flavor. Children and pets may eat enough to induce illness or, in the case of pets, even death.
HOT HINT
Artificial, decorative choices are plentiful.
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Many popular, holiday plants have visual appeal, BUT they can be toxic, especially to children and pets. Dear neighbor, I am thinking of you. Please continue reading and share this information with your loved ones.
Let's begin with the delightful Poinsettia. Although this Euphorbia
is not deathly dangerous,eating a few leaves may cause an ill feeling and vomiting. Rubbing the sap from the plant on one's skin can cause an itchy rash. Beyond that, this plant is unlikely to cause a tremendous problem for either humans or pets.
Mistletoe is potentially hazardous for children and pets. Pharoadendron species contain a toxin called phoratoxin, which can cause blurred vision, nausea, abdominal pain, diarrhea, blood pressure changes and even death. The Viscum species of mistletoe have a slightly different cocktail of chemicals, including the poisonous alkaloid tyramine, which produces similar symptoms. All parts of the mistletoe plant are poisonous, though it is the berries that may be most attractive to kids. Eating one or two berries may or may not cause a problem for a child, but a small pet could be endangered by eating a few leaves or berries. If your child or pet should eat mistletoe, seek medical advice pronto!
A child can eat one or two Holly Berries without harm, but around 20 berries can produce death. So, eating holly berries is a serious concern for children and pets. The bark, leaves and seeds are toxic as well. What is the poison? It is theobromine, an alkaloid that is related to caffeine. Theobromine is found in chocolate and is toxic to dogs even at the lower concentration but there is much more of the compound in holly berries.
Amaryllis, Daffodil and Narcissus bulbs may be forced indoors to produce charming holiday flowers. Eating the bulbs (and leaves, though they are less toxic) can cause abdominal pain, cardiac arrhythmias and convulsions. The plants are more likely to be eaten by pets than children, but the alkaloid poison, lycorine, is considered toxic to humans too.
Cyclamen, a flowering plant, has tubers which contain triterpinoidsaponins, which can induce nausea, vomiting, convulsions and paralysis. This plant is more of a concern for pets than humans.
Cedars, Pines and Firs are mildly toxic. If trees are sprayed with a flame retardant, obviously the toxicity is increased. The biggest issue is the possibility of puncturing part of the gastrointestinal tract from eating needles. Also, tree oils may irritate the mouth and skin.
Jerusalem Cherry is a species of nightshade that bears poisonous fruit. The primary poison is the alkaloid solanocapsine, which can produce gastric upset and vomiting in people but, generally is not life-threatening. However, the fruits are hazardous to dogs, cats and some birds. The fruit resembles a cherry tomato, both in appearance and flavor. Children and pets may eat enough to induce illness or, in the case of pets, even death.
HOT HINT
Artificial, decorative choices are plentiful.
"Nine-tenths of wisdom is being wise in time."
~ THEODORE ROOSEVELT (1858-1919),
26th President of the U.S.
~ THEODORE ROOSEVELT (1858-1919),
26th President of the U.S.
MEALYBUGS
by Diana L.
Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
YIKES --- WHO wants THEM???
According to Drs. Roizen and Oz, in YOU Staying Young, "Houseplants improve air quality because they produce oxygen and remove pollutants from the air. One NASA study showed that philodendrons, spider plants (photo below) and golden pothos were the most effective."
But keep your eyes peeled! The mealybug is one of the most prevalent pests of houseplants. A 1/4-inch scale-like bug that's covered with a white flour-like material, the mealybug uses its piercing mouth parts to suck plant juices. The bugs feed in large groups. The first sign of an infestation is what appears to be a cottony mass on the undersides of leaves. If left to their own devices, these silly sap-suckers can actually kill a plant. They can also pose problems to outdoor fruits and flowers.
Remove ALL bugs with a soft, wet cloth. It's essential to get rid of them totally and not provide them with a different feeding place. An insecticidal soap can also be applied by spraying the undersides of leaves, the soil surface and the area around and beneath the plants. Insecticidal soaps are non-toxic to people and pets, but they disintegrate the bugs' skin, causing them to dry out and perish.
With a keen eye, meticulously inspect plants BEFORE purchasing them or bringing them indoors after the summer ends. Scrutinize the leaves, stems, soil and bottom of container for egg masses and crawlers. Also, avoid excessive feeding; mealybugs thrive on juicy, over-fed plant tissue.
Garden Club member Laura Dillman relates firsthand the problem she encountered by not inspecting one sunbathing plant before bringing it back inside:
HOT HINTS
Periodically, perhaps each season is a good way to remember it, bathe your plants using lukewarm, soapy water with a sponge. Gentle washing and rinsing will rid the plants of dust so they can breathe better, improve their appearance and discourage unwelcome pests. Fuzzy-leafed plants, such as African violets, prefer to be cleaned with a soft brush. Speak nicely to them too! So, now you're ready -- hup to it.
YIKES --- WHO wants THEM???
According to Drs. Roizen and Oz, in YOU Staying Young, "Houseplants improve air quality because they produce oxygen and remove pollutants from the air. One NASA study showed that philodendrons, spider plants (photo below) and golden pothos were the most effective."
But keep your eyes peeled! The mealybug is one of the most prevalent pests of houseplants. A 1/4-inch scale-like bug that's covered with a white flour-like material, the mealybug uses its piercing mouth parts to suck plant juices. The bugs feed in large groups. The first sign of an infestation is what appears to be a cottony mass on the undersides of leaves. If left to their own devices, these silly sap-suckers can actually kill a plant. They can also pose problems to outdoor fruits and flowers.
Remove ALL bugs with a soft, wet cloth. It's essential to get rid of them totally and not provide them with a different feeding place. An insecticidal soap can also be applied by spraying the undersides of leaves, the soil surface and the area around and beneath the plants. Insecticidal soaps are non-toxic to people and pets, but they disintegrate the bugs' skin, causing them to dry out and perish.
With a keen eye, meticulously inspect plants BEFORE purchasing them or bringing them indoors after the summer ends. Scrutinize the leaves, stems, soil and bottom of container for egg masses and crawlers. Also, avoid excessive feeding; mealybugs thrive on juicy, over-fed plant tissue.
Garden Club member Laura Dillman relates firsthand the problem she encountered by not inspecting one sunbathing plant before bringing it back inside:
"The hitch-hiking mealybugs infested my two-story tall, 10-foot wide ficus tree. Because I was dealing with such a large plant, topical insecticidal soaps didn't work. I finally had to water the tree with a systemic insecticide, which the tree absorbed through the roots. When the bugs sucked, they ingested the poison. It was 18 months from the time I discovered the mealybugs until I was able to get rid of them. I hated seeing those little cottony masses! An easier and more environmentally-friendly solution would have been to check the small plant that I had set outside BEFORE bringing it back in the house, just as Diana so wisely advises."Meet me here next month for a must-read about your loved ones' safety.
HOT HINTS
Periodically, perhaps each season is a good way to remember it, bathe your plants using lukewarm, soapy water with a sponge. Gentle washing and rinsing will rid the plants of dust so they can breathe better, improve their appearance and discourage unwelcome pests. Fuzzy-leafed plants, such as African violets, prefer to be cleaned with a soft brush. Speak nicely to them too! So, now you're ready -- hup to it.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
~ BENJAMIN FRANKLIN (1706 -1790),
American inventor
~ BENJAMIN FRANKLIN (1706 -1790),
American inventor
ELEPHANT EARS
Source: "Landscaping"
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
In landscaping, elephant ears are grown for their huge, flamboyant, heart-shaped leaves. Grow these unique plants in a slightly acidic soil in sun to partial shade. As a wetland plant in the wild, they crave water. This makes them a smart choice for wet areas where homeowners usually have trouble finding suitable plants. Various cultivars exist, including black leaf elephant ear plants called "Black Magic." "Yellow Splash" has a variegated leaf, making it look rather like the pothos plant so widely used as a houseplant.
In landscaping, elephant ears are grown for their huge, flamboyant, heart-shaped leaves. Grow these unique plants in a slightly acidic soil in sun to partial shade. As a wetland plant in the wild, they crave water. This makes them a smart choice for wet areas where homeowners usually have trouble finding suitable plants. Various cultivars exist, including black leaf elephant ear plants called "Black Magic." "Yellow Splash" has a variegated leaf, making it look rather like the pothos plant so widely used as a houseplant.Plant taxonomy classifies the most widely known elephant ears, or "taro" as Colocasia esculenta. "Esculent" means edible. Elephant ears are an important food source around the world.
Elephant ears are herbaceous perennials in warm climates and can be left outside year-round in USDA planting zones 8 and above. Although they aren't indigenous to Florida they have become naturalized in some wetland areas in the southern half of the state and are widespread. In fact, elephant ears are considered invasive plants there. In cold climates, these star performers are treated as annuals, allowing us our own little piece of "tropical landscaping" -- albeit short-lived.
Garden Club member, Betty Gilbert says, "They're a great, showy plant and a good conversation piece -- one of my plants grew leaves that were FOUR feet long." Betty, an accomplished gardener, shared with me her successful, ongoing process of growing elephant ears for many years:
Garden Club member, Betty Gilbert says, "They're a great, showy plant and a good conversation piece -- one of my plants grew leaves that were FOUR feet long." Betty, an accomplished gardener, shared with me her successful, ongoing process of growing elephant ears for many years:
"We've kept the same bulbs for three years and each year we get babies. When the babies are planted the next season, they get big and send out offshoots which we break off and plant the next year... and it continues on. Dig up the elephant ears before the frost kills the foliage. Cut off the foliage about five to six inches above the bulbs and break off the small bulbs. Store them upside down in a cool, dry, dark place. If stored right side up, the moisture from the stem will go into the bulb and it will become mushy. Plant them 24 - 36" apart, sun to full shade, after all threat of frost has passed. The leaves come up in June; then they take off (see photo above). They are fast growers and can reach heights of four to six feet in one season."
Source: "Landscaping"
"Plant and your spouse plants with you; weed and you weed alone."
~ JEAN JACQUES ROUSSEAU (1712-1778),
Swiss philosopher
Swiss philosopher
September 2010
GREEN ACRES
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
"Green acres is the place to be."
"Darling, I'll take this over Park Avenue any time."
Hmmm . . . Shall I or shan't I bag? That is the question.
And the Answer is: When mowing, it's beneficial to leave the grass clippings where they scatter on your lawn. Grass clippings break down rather quickly and contain a lot of nitrogen along with other nutrients. As clippings decompose, the nutrients are fed back to the lawn which promotes steady growth and makes a major contribution towards keeping your acres emerald green and spiffy.
Thatch. Some wonder if grass clippings create thatch, a brown matting which prevents water and air from reaching the lawn's roots. Actually, thatch is a build-up of living and dead grass ROOTS and STEMS. This unhealthy lawn condition can be prevented by regular aeration and/or power-raking. Grass clippings on the lawn encourage earthworms and other microorganisms to populate the area. Clippings assist in preventing thatch, because earthworms and the like break down thatch.
Another great benefit is that, even a small amount of clippings help to shade and protect the lawn during the hot, sultry days of summer.Clippings, including some fallen, mowed leaves act as mulch for the grass plants and aid in the reduction of moisture loss.
If you choose to collect the clippings from time to time, add them to a compost pile or use them as vegetable garden mulch, provided the lawn hasn’t been treated with an herbicide in the prior two or three weeks. Try not to layer the mulch any more than two inches; otherwise it may decay and smell. Spread clippings rather thinly so they dry quickly and add more later.
Make sure to read next month's column about ears, yes, Betty's Elephant Ears!
HOT HINTS
Exercising in a 'green' space, such as a park or garden, can give mental health a significant boost, say researchers. Study authors, Jules Pretty and Jo Barton of the University of Essex, England, analyzed 10 studies involving 1,252 participants. Results showed that exercising in a green environment led to significant improvements in mood and self-esteem.
I'm addicted to gazing at our green back yard, with connecting grassy path and woodlands, which always gives me a heightened sense of well-being. Also, how about a benefit for the illustrious mowing engineer? Clippings left on the lawn reduce the overall time and energy one would spend on mowing, bagging and dumping. More time for a tall, cool one, I'd say!
"A lawn is nature under totalitarian rule."
~ MICHAEL POLLAN (1955- ),
American author
American author
Unfortunately, some of the most spectacular garden flowers are of no use to the bee. In contrast, many flowers dismissed as weeds, such as dandelions and forget-me-nots, provide a rich source of food. One of the best and easiest things one can do to make an area more bee-friendly is to forgo the weed killers and let a section of lawns and beds go wild. My Knight in Shining Armour and I don't live on the wild side; so this strategy isn't for us and may not be for you. The next best thing is to leave a patch somewhere for sowing a wildflower mix or plant my choice, which is a cutting garden.
Be willing to try different varieties of plants and seeds each year and, YOU be the judge. The following star performers are some of my favorite, charming and reliable annuals which are ideal for vases of various sizes and colors: Blue Salvia, Cleome, Cosmos, Larkspur, Lisianthus, Marigolds, Nasturtium, Nierembergia (a tender perennial native to Argentina, used as an annual), Snapdragons (Rockets, in particular), Sweet Peas and bold and beautiful Zinnias. 
YOUR OUTDOOR PALETTE
JUMP START YOUR GARDEN
by Diana L. Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Everything begins with a
thought. Contemplate and create plans for your upcoming gardening
endeavors. An excellent way to connect to nature and nourish the mind,
body and spirit is to think positively about gardening plans. Peruse
seed catalogs. They are a wonderful source of inspiration, information
and offer many varieties which are not to be found in local stores.
You
can start seeds for flowers and vegetables indoors in almost any type
of container. It's easy as 1-2-3! Seedlings will need to be lifted out
and transplanted into a larger container when they are ready or, they
can be planted outdoors when there is no longer danger of frost.
One of the easiest and neatest methods is to plant seeds in individual, expandable peat pellets. Not only is there no mess to deal with but, the seedlings will experience little or no transplant shock or root damage when planted. It's simple as do-re-me!
Try my user-friendly seed-starting instructions and don't stop 'til you get enough:
You
can start seeds for flowers and vegetables indoors in almost any type
of container. It's easy as 1-2-3! Seedlings will need to be lifted out
and transplanted into a larger container when they are ready or, they
can be planted outdoors when there is no longer danger of frost. One of the easiest and neatest methods is to plant seeds in individual, expandable peat pellets. Not only is there no mess to deal with but, the seedlings will experience little or no transplant shock or root damage when planted. It's simple as do-re-me!
Try my user-friendly seed-starting instructions and don't stop 'til you get enough:
- Set pellets in a tray; cover them with water. I suggest leaving one to two inches between each pellet to allow for expansion
- Make 2 or 3 holes in each expanded pellet (now a peat pot) using a pencil. Carefully insert a seed into each hole; then pinch the pot to cover the seeds.
- Place pots in a warm area (about 70-75 degrees). Keep pots moist, but not soggy.
- When seedlings sprout move them to a cool, sunny window.
- Keep only one strong and healthy seedling per pot. Snip off the others.
- Transfer seedlings to a cold frame or place outdoors for a few hours daily, for one week, to acclimate them to the real world.
- When weather permits it's time to plant your seedlings, peat pot and all.
HOT HINT
You
are not alone. I can personally guarantee it won't be a thriller if you
lose any newly planted seedlings to cutworms. You can beat it!
Sledgehammers won't work here but you can protect your young, tender
plants from those smooth criminals by installing paper cups. Using TLC,
push a cup with the bottom removed into the soil surrounding each
plant leaving a scant 2" tall collar per seedling.
Follow these recommendations for preparing for this year's growing season and you'll be glad you did later on.
- Avoid walking on wet soil, which will compact it. Wait until the ground dries to start working in your flower and veggie beds. To test the moisture level, squeeze a clump of soil in your hand. If it breaks apart when you open your hand it is dry enough to work.
- Transplant and divide Galanthus (snowdrops) after the flowers fade but while the foliage is still green. If you have spring crocus that bloom this month, divide them just as the foliage has yellowed and died.
- When winter storms are over, remove trunk covers from protected trees. If a tree that was staked is growing straight, remove the stakes.
- Prune trees in early March while they are still dormant. Don’t trim spring flowering shrubs such as lilac, magnolia, and forsythia until after they finish blooming.
- Properly vent your greenhouse during early spring when fluctuating temperatures are common. Open the windows on mild days and close them before nightfall.
- It's time for houseplants to break their dormancy. You can fertilize at every second watering.
- Tune up your lawn mower. Replace the spark plugs, clean the air filter, remove any grass and debris, and get the blades sharpened and balanced.
- Remember to keep turning your compost pile and keep it moist but not too wet.
"Having a garden can produce nutritional food, glorious flowers,
and induce exercise. But the beauty of nature
brings serenity to the brain and spirit."
and induce exercise. But the beauty of nature
brings serenity to the brain and spirit."
~ DIANA L. FERRARI,
SGC Horticulture Committee
SGC Horticulture Committee
GIVE AN HERBAL PLANTER,
THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING
by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Design this easy-to-make and useful gift for yourself or your loved ones. A portable container which can be placed near or on a sunny windowsill makes a wise choice as a planter for culinary herbs.
Plant your most favorite herbs or, consider the following tasty choices which snuggle and live happily together because they all have things in common. They appreciate a warm, sunny spot with well-drained soil and need water only when the soil feels dry to the touch. Keep in mind they grow well in the hot, dry Mediterranean climate.
- Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) - Both fresh and dried leaves are excellent additions to roasted vegetables, meat, sauces and soup. I love fresh sprigs of Rosemary used as a garnish, secured uprightly.
- Sage (Salvia officinalis) - Fresh or dried leaves add a pungent twist to sausage, stuffing and breads.
- Sweet Marjoram (Origanum marjorana) - Belongs to the same genus as earthy Oregano. This herb is perfect in spaghetti sauce, pizza and egg dishes.
- Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) - Superb in soups, stews and sauces.
Most herbs will be content in any container so feel free to be creative and dazzle your loved ones or yourself with your selections. You may need to make drainage holes in the bottom of your planter and include a drainage dish. Use high-quality planting soil and leave ample room for the plants to grow freely. Liquid sea kelp and fish emulsion are good fertilizer choices.
HOT HINTS
- Design your herbal planter with one of the herbs cascading by positioning the plant at a near 45 degree angle, encouraging the attractive foliage to drape over the edge.
- Most herbs taste the best before they flower.
- Combine the herb(s) of your choice with olive oil for a luscious drizzle before roasting a combination of cut-up veggies. We like to kick it up a notch by including more-than-a-few hot pepper flakes! Use also as a dip for crusty, grain bread.
"To cherish peace and goodwill, to be plenteous in mercy,
is to have the real spirit of Christmas."
~ CALVIN COOLIDGE (1872-1933),
30th U.S. President
30th U.S. President
COMPOSTING: YIMBY! (Part 2 of 2)
by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Unlike sprawling compost piles, this YIMBY (Yes! In My Back Yard) compost bin keeps the contents neatly contained. Air can circulate freely, which is essential for breaking down the ingredients AND, this bin opens on any side, so it's super-easy to turn the pile.
Place your compost bin in a level, well-drained area in full sun, with good air circulation. ADD equal parts brown and green wastes, MINUS chemicals. To aerate the pile, mix or toss frequently with a garden fork, or poke air holes into it with a broom handle. Keep the pile moist, like a sponge, but not soaking wet. The process is finished when the bottom of the pile has dark, rich soil which willingly crumbles in your hand. Hmmm . . . Black Gold!
What you need to build your own bin:
- Eight 6-foot 2x4's
- Thirty-two 5/16-inch x 2-inch carriage bolts, nuts and washers.
- Four 3-inch door hinges
- Four large hook-and-eye assemblies
- 12-foot x 36-inch hardware cloth, 1/2-inch squares
- Poultry wire staples
- Waterproof construction adhesive
Recommended tools:
- Table or circular saw
- Rafter square
- Power drill
- Chisel
- Rasp
- Tin snips
- Pliers
- Heavy-duty work gloves
Let's Get Building...You CAN Do It!
1. Cut each 2x4 in half to make 16 3-foot pieces.
2. Cut a 3-1/2-inch x 3/4-inch deep notch (a rabbet) in both ends of each piece. You can do this on a table saw or with a circular saw. Make several close cuts (about 1/8 inch apart) across the grain in the notched section. Use a hammer and chisel to break out the wood between these cuts. Smooth with a rasp.
3. Fit notched ends together to make four 3-foot-square frames. Drill holes for two carriage bolts in the opposite corners of each notch (see illustrations).
4. Use construction adhesive in each joint before assembling. The nuts should face the outside so the bolts won't catch on your clothes when you're turning the pile. Use tin snips to cut the hardware cloth into four 3-foot-square sections.
5. Tack each corner of the hardware cloth to the frame with poultry wire staples. Then staple around the frame every 2 inches.
6. Connect two frames with two door hinges, then put two hook-and-eye gate latches on the other ends. Repeat this step for the remaining two frames. Stand the frames to form a square and latch the sections together.
7. Stand back and admire the results of your "Yankee Ingenuity." Then, fill 'er up!
Source: Birds and Blooms
COMPOSTING: YIMBY! (Part 1 of 2)
by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Composting offers a YIMBY (Yes! In My Back Yard) solution to the organic components of the municipal, solid waste stream.
Yard trimmings make up at least 13% of what households put out for disposal. Food wastes comprise another 10% of the total waste volume. That works out to about 200 pounds of yard trimmings and another 150 pounds of food waste per person, annually. These two segments alone can reduce our total waste volume by almost one fourth and yield an end product-- COMPOST, a very valuable soil amendment. Some gardeners use the term, "Black Gold", when referring to mature, crumbling compost.
Composting is the biological decomposition of organic matter. Decomposition occurs naturally but, it can be accelerated. Microorganisms, worms and insects break organic materials into compost. Compost contains nutrients that, when returned to the soil, are used by plants. This is nature's way of recycling. Make your garden beneficial with nutritionally-loaded, friable soil!
Any natural, organic material can be composted. Examples are grass clippings, weeds, tree leaves, hedge clippings, straw, livestock manures and kitchen produce waste. Also, many manufactured organic materials that are NOT waxed or plastic-coated, such as newspapers, paper boxes, clothing scraps and wood shavings are compostable and may be used. DO NOT include toxic items that contain any type of chemicals.
You can make a compost pile in a back corner of your vegetable garden or build or buy a bin which will keep a neat appearance. This is a good thing and every gardening aficionado should have one.
Debora Reynolds, SGC's Horticulture Committee Member, enjoys her tumbler-style composter, shown above.
Join me next month and learn how to build a user-friendly, compost bin.
Source: University of Arkansas, Agriculture
"The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun,
heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to
feed not just the body, but the soul."
heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to
feed not just the body, but the soul."
~ ALFRED AUSTIN (1835-1910),
English poet
English poet
MOONLIGHT BECOMES THEM!
by Diana Lynn Ferrari, SGC Horticulture Committee
Moonflower vine (Ipomoea alba) boastfully produces white, stunning flowers which become willing show-offs at night! PLUS, moonlight becomes them. I'm thrilled at the sight!
At sunset the attractive blossoms begin to unfurl, emitting a pleasant, light fragrance. This annual climber bears a strong resemblance to the old-time, beloved, morning glories but, the vines intentionally grow taller with larger flowers and leaves. Both annuals have heart-shaped leaves, are easy to grow and have a charming appearance.
My experience has been that a mere two or three seeds of the moonflower vine (and morning glories as well) will flourish into a "knock-your-socks-off" array which is admired all season. Provide them with a sturdy trellis, fence or other support with strings. The enchanting moonflower vine prefers full sun and moist soil.
Night-blooming flowers open in the evening to release their fragrance. They are attracting night-flying pollinators such as moths. Other night-blooming annuals to consider are the angel's trumpet (Datura inoxia), night phlox (Zaluzianskya capensis), and night-scented stock (Matthiola longipetala).
Night-blooming perennials include August hosta (Hosta plantaginea), lemon lily (Hemerocallislilioasphodelus), and citron daylily (H. citrina). 'Alaskan midnight', 'ice dancer', and 'nautical nights' are also nocturnal daylilies. Among woody plants, both the ear-leaved umbrella tree (Magnolia fraseri) and the sweet bay (M. virginiana) are night-scented.
For a more comprehensive list, refer to The Evening Garden: Flowers and Fragrance from Dusk till Dawn by Peter Loewer.
HOT HINT
Consider planting moonflower vine seeds at the base of your mailbox or lamp post. I recommend starting them indoors in peat pots mid-April. Showy, elegant blossoms will furnish a unique landmark for your visitors arriving in the evening and, will provide you with a welcoming sight upon returning home from a night out.
Source: About Gardening
"Moonlight is sculpture."
~ Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804-1864),
American novelist
American novelist
Yes, you can RAIN GARDENS
by Maria Capella, SGC Horticulture Committee
Although rain gardens have been around for a while many people have never heard of them. You have probably passed by a rain garden here in Suffield every day-- at the intersection of South Main and Bridge Streets.
What is a rain garden? A rain garden is a landscape or streetscape that consists of a shallow depression designed to collect and filter storm water. Every time it rains, storm water runoff from roads and parking lots is collected by the rain garden. The runoff is absorbed into the garden soil and the plants growing there.
Rain gardens can trap 99 percent of pollutants contained in storm runoff such as oil, metals and fertilizers. Even the mulch covering the garden assists in the filtration process. Rain gardens can be planted along streams, roads and ponds, anywhere there is storm runoff.
The Bridge Street Island rain garden was designed to create year-round visual interest. Evergreen shrubs are the foundation of the garden. In early spring daffodils awaken. Come mid-spring, Stella Doro daylilies and irises are in bloom followed by roses. The roses bloom until frost and Russian Sage helps with the summer color display.
The Suffield Garden Club, which maintains the island, uses eco-friendly products to control pests and diseases. The previous roses in the garden could no longer be maintained in this manner so a new disease-resistant variety called 'Theresa Buget' was planted.
See the University of Connecticut web site for a complete guide on how to build and design your own rain garden.
